The Rise of Lidos in the UK and Beyond
There are over 160 lidos scattered across the United Kingdom, and in the past five years, their resurgence has been fueled by passionate local groups working to restore and reopen historic landmarks. These efforts have not only revived old swimming spots like the UK’s oldest lido in Bath and Tooting Bec’s 90-meter pool in south London, but also led to the creation of new ones such as Sea Lanes on Brighton’s seafront and a soon-to-open location in Canary Wharf, London.
Swimming in these open-air pools has become more than just a hobby for many. For some, it’s an obsession. One individual found themselves constantly being asked, “Are you at the lido again?”—a question they were usually correct about. What began as a casual interest turned into a full-blown passion when they wrote a book about lidos. This led to a whirlwind of travel, swimming in pools and lakes all over the world. It was a tough job, but someone had to do it.
The book was released during the pandemic, and with most events and festivals canceled, it struggled to gain traction. However, as lockdown restrictions eased, people rediscovered the joy of outdoor swimming. This renewed interest led the author to explore even more pools and natural swimming spots.
One of the highlights was visiting Saltdean Lido in Sussex, a stunning Art Deco lido that reopened in 2017 after a volunteer-led restoration campaign. The design is reminiscent of a grand ocean liner, with its white façade and sharp lines. The restored signage adds to the timeless charm, evoking the glamour of the Great Gatsby era.
Another memorable visit was to Tinside Lido in Plymouth, a Grade II-listed saltwater pool that looks like it belongs in an episode of Poirot. The pool’s fountains and architectural style make it feel like a scene from a classic mystery. On one occasion, the author nearly missed a flight after spending the day there. A train delay caused by cows on the tracks added to the chaos, making the experience feel like something out of Brass Eye. Once in Madeira, they enjoyed the Albatroz sea pools, located below the airport cliffs.
Brass Eye director Michael Cumming has also shown a love for lidos, creating a film about Grange Lido in Cumbria, which is currently undergoing restoration. The author is also collaborating with another director, Francis Hanly, on a documentary exploring the beauty of Britain’s outdoor pools.
In Scotland, Stonehaven is the northernmost lido, where the author enjoyed a quiet afternoon with an Irn Bru and some biscuits. Their travels extended beyond the UK, including a visit to Dantebad in Munich, where they watched a woman reading a German version of Psychology Today on a sunbed. In Vienna, they explored Gansehaufel, a unique spot named “a pile of geese,” featuring cabins, cafes, and giant chess sets.
Budapest’s Palatinus Strand is another standout, an Art Deco gem with clean white lines, curved glass staircases, and expansive gardens. While many focus on Budapest’s spas, the author believes the Strand is often overlooked.
Swimming doesn’t have to be confined to square pools. Lake Bled Lido in Slovenia, for example, offers a scenic setting with a lifeguard sporting a Paul Hollywood tan. In the Netherlands, Markermeer can be accessed via a pontoon outside De Durgerdam boutique hotel, while in Austria, the Old Danube is known for its cleanliness and safety.
In Britain, wild swimming has become riskier, making the West Reservoir Centre in Hackney, London, a rare and valuable spot for open-water swims. Further afield, Australia’s Bronte Baths offer a dramatic rock-cut pool nestled beneath sandy cliffs. There, the author met Therese Spruhan, author of The Memory Pool, a book exploring the cultural significance of outdoor swimming in Australia.
Among all the lidos visited, London Fields remains a favorite. Its colorful changing rooms and friendly staff make it a welcoming place. Sitting by the back wall with a Penguin bar and a lemon Fanta is a personal highlight. Life is precious, and what better way to spend it than by the pool, with a few laps of front crawl and a sugary snack afterward.
Lido is published by Batsford Books, and Christopher Beanland presents the Park Date Podcast.
Post a Comment